Mechanical watch “CHRONO TOKYO” (Kurono Tokyo) new color released by the design and design of independent watchmaker, Mr. Asaoka.
Nuve A, Inc. Mechanical watch “CHRONO TOKYO” (Kurono Tokyo) new color released by the design and design of independent watchmaker, Mr. Asaoka. April 19 (Fri) at TiCTAC directly managed online store ………………………………………………………………………………………… In the watch select shop “TiCTAC” (Tic Tac), two new colors of the mechanical automatic watch “CHRONO TOKYO” (Kurono Tokyo) designed and designed by independent watchmaker Akira Asaoka (Asaoka) It will be released at the directly managed online store.
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“CHRONO TOKYO” Left: ref.CT002V (Vanilla beige dial) Right: ref.CT002B (Navy blue dial) Each ¥ 180,000 + tax (Number of production: 100 points for each color)
Independent watchmaker Ryo Asaoka profile Born in 1965. Graduated from Tokyo Art University Design Department in 1990. Then freelance industrial designer. Began activities as the first independent watchmaker in Japan in 2011. Exhibited at Baselworld (Switzerland) every year since 2013. Participated in the 2017 World Tour Exhibition "Watchmakers: The Masters of Art Horology". The customer is a high-end mania in the world, and its orthodox watchmaking is highly valued. AHCI (Academy Independent Watchmaker Association) member. ・ The encounter between Asaoka Akira and TiCTAC is over 20 years ago. We started with asking Mr. Asaoka, who was an up-and-coming designer at the time, to design a watch that I made with the interior shop "MODANICA" that manufactures and sells furniture in the 50's style. Even now, fresh "MODANICA" was the clock that Asaoka designed for the first time. 機械 機械 生 ま れ る か ら 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 機械 lexus.jp/magazine/20180409/172/cra_hajime_asaoka.html
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“CHRONO TOKYO” is made as an introductory machine for mechanical watches, and as a watch that Mr. Asaoka uses daily. Mr. Asaoka asked about the commitment to this watch that took three years or more from the idea and the process until completion. It is a long sentence but it will be posted without omission. (The first release color published in the sentence was sold out.) Q. What was the purpose of making this watch? A. First, it is positioned as an introductory machine for mechanical watches. In that respect, recently, there is a problem that the price of a full-scale mechanical watch has risen too much. About 25 years ago, that is, even when the economy was good because of the bubble, I could buy a lifetime watch if I put out 200,000 yen. After all, I think it is important to meet a good watch first. Among them, there are also people who become so-called enthusiasts, and I am happy as a person who is in the watch industry like me. Therefore, I assigned the mission of an independent watchmaker to make a watch that matched it. Also, if you say the truth, there are times when I wanted a watch that I used. In the case of an independent watchmaker who produces high-end watches, the number of production is extremely small, and there is a worry that they can not have their own because they prioritize delivery. I am one such person. Among the members of AHCI (group of independent watchmen), there is a British independent watchmaker who always watches TUDOR (one of the most capable in the world), but if you ask the reason, it will also be for delivery. Because there was no room to make one for myself. So I designed this watch because it is the best watch I use on a daily basis. At the same time, I think that mania can also be satisfied.
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Q. As an independent watchmaker’s work, I thought that the price of 180,000 yen (excluding tax) was quite cheap. A. Is that so? I’m sorry I was high (lol). I think that it is more accurate to say that it is fair price if it says forcibly. It can be said that it is a price range of high-end aircraft sufficiently in light of the level of the times as mentioned above. That’s why we carefully consider cost allocation so as not to disappoint its expectations. For example, the adopted MIYOTA 90S5 movement is a very cost-effective machine. Q. Please tell me about that MIYOTA 90S5. A. MIYOTA is a citizen’s movement section, but the one that was planned as an alternative to the Swiss movement called ETA2824 is the MIYOTA 90S5. The design of the ETA2824 is very old, and is now in the public domain, and there are already some compatible machines, such as made in Switzerland, but the MIYOTA 90S5 has the same implementation requirements compared to these virtual copies, The feature is that the design is completely new. Therefore, it is technically new, and also, several years after its release, the quality is stable. In other words, it can be said that it is in a very “seasonal” situation. I also interact with Citizen engineers, and I listen to their design commitments, so I understand their goodness. That’s why we adopted it.
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Image to know the density of mirror finish. Finish according to the established HAJIME ASAOKA. Q. What are the characteristics of the design? A. How do you make use of the MIYOTA 90 S5? First of all, it is important. It may be surprising, but the factors involved in the implementation of the movement determine most of the appearance of the watch. If you compare it to a car, is it easy to understand if the situation is similar to changing proportions depending on the mounting position of the engine? In the case of a watch, there is not as much freedom as a car, but from the condition of its tight exterior, slight differences in mounting position greatly affect the design. This may be a point that I can realize because I am an independent watchmaker. This time, in combination with the cylinder dial (the center of the dial rises), box sapphire is adopted. Because cylinder dials are time-consuming to manufacture, they have become rare with modern watches. In particular, when using the Applied Index (a style in which a solid scale is fixed to the dial) as in this machine, it is extremely necessary to closely attach the curved surface to the index. Box sapphire is the shape of acrylic windshield that was used until the 60’s, reproduced with sapphire glass. Its shape is characterized by a gentle curve in the central part and a sharp drop in the outer part, so when combined with a cylinder dial, it has the merit of being able to make the appearance thinner while maintaining needle clearance. However, machining extremely hard sapphire into such shape is very expensive, so it is usually not used unless it is a fairly high-end machine.
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Drawing showing the positional relationship of dial, hands and glass. It is stored in the last minute clearance. Q. Please tell me about the exterior. A. The exterior is made of 316L stainless steel. Waterproof at 3 atmospheres. It features an elegant appearance reminiscent of the 1960s style, the golden age of mechanical watches. Recently, a mechanical watch with a glass in the back cover to make the movement visible is popular, but this machine has adopted a solid back (invisible). The reason is that wearing the glass may damage the feeling of wearing. As this machine was designed to be a practical machine, the sense of installation was further pursued. Also, at the same time, the design of the rug (the part to which the belt is attached) is also important, but in that respect, my experience as an independent watchmaker has been utilized. Q. Please tell me about the dial. A. The dial was specially ordered from the most powerful dial maker in Japan. There is a trade with Swiss brands here, and even among domestic watches, it is a maker with a history and ability that is enough to use the finest products. In fact, I had an approach to work from my side at the booth where I exhibited the clock at BaselWorld (the world’s largest watch fair held in Switzerland each year). As it is the beginning of such familiarity, I have heard that quite unreasonable orders have been heard. It may not have been easy to hear that this is a brand new emerging brand. I think I was very lucky. The dial is a cylinder dial. Besides, it is the specification itself that was required for the old high-end machine, which is almost lost today: glossy paint finish and applied index. As all current movements are designed with flat dials, it is the most difficult problem in the development of this watch to mount a cylinder dial.
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Prototype dial (left) and product version (right). In the full version, the railway width is slightly reduced by 0.1 mm. Q. Please tell me about the strap. A. The strap adopted a simple made of calf. Not too much cost, the part is devoted to the watch body. The strap is the only part that can reflect the user’s preferences, so I hope each one enjoys the feeling of having your favorite one prepared separately. Therefore, I avoided putting up luxury items. The width of the lug is the most popular 20mm. Of course, the supplied strap is designed considering the balance with the watch, so it is good to use it as it is.
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Newly made tail lock. The tail lock was originally planned to be ready-made, but there is no small lock that fits the design of this watch, so I made it from the mold. Q. Please tell me about the package (dressing box). A. The package is meaningless even if it costs too much, and I designed it in the atmosphere of the era when paper boxes were the mainstream. There is no flower beauty, but I think that it is still enough as a gift.
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A cosmetic box inspired by a pre-1960s watch package. Mr. Asaoka himself worked from design to trial production. Q. How is it made? A. I am very happy. Especially on the dial, the manufacturer received all the fine-tuning of the design without making any unpleasant face. For example, the portion of the railway (fine scale) on the outer periphery is thinner than the original design by 0.1 mm. This watch could be realized only because we could pursue such an extremely delicate balance seriously. It is also important that this watch is made based on my subjectivity. I made it my own way without having an ear to hear from anyone. I think that such manufacturing is almost lost now.
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■ “TiCTAC” (Tic Tac)
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